Hygrophila Pinnatifida — Potted | Live Freshwater Midground Plant

Hygrophila Pinnatifida (Hygrophila pinnatifida) is one of the most popular textured plants in aquascaping — fern-like, finely lobed leaves that shift from olive green to coppery red under strong light, with the bonus of growing equally well planted, attached to driftwood, or wedged into rockwork. This is a potted nursery-grown plant, ready to drop in or be split into smaller portions. Pair it with our other freshwater aquarium plants.

Care Guide

• Position: Midground or background. Also excellent as an epiphyte — superglue or tie to driftwood/rocks; remove the pot and rockwool if going that route.
• Tank size: 10 gallons minimum.
• Temperature: 68–82°F (20–28°C).
• pH: 6.0–7.5.
• Hardness: Soft to moderate, 2–12 dGH.
• Lighting: Medium to high. Low light works but the plant grows leggy and stays green; strong light brings out the coppery reds and keeps the form compact.
• CO2: Not strictly required — pinnatifida survives in low-tech tanks — but injected CO2 dramatically improves color, leaf density, and growth speed.
• Substrate: A nutrient-rich substrate or root tabs help when planted; not needed if you're attaching it to hardscape.
• Trimming: Fast grower that constantly sends out side runners. Trim side shoots to keep it bushy; replant the trimmings for free propagation.

Specifications

Planting Tips

• Out of the pot: Pop the plant out of the cup and remove the rockwool (gently — long fibers can wrap around fish gills). Rinse roots before planting.
• As a planted stem: Push the stem into substrate; root tabs nearby help.
• As an epiphyte: Trim the roots short and superglue (cyanoacrylate gel) or tie to driftwood or rocks — try our Galapagos Cholla Wood for a natural anchor.
• Splitting the pot: One potted plant often divides into 3–5 individual stems — great value if you have a larger scape.

Pairs Well With

• Christmas Moss — perfect for layering on the same driftwood
• Red Root Floater and Water Lettuce — surface cover that filters intense light into the warm, dappled conditions pinnatifida loves
• Eriocaulon sp. Vietnam — contrasting fine-textured foreground plant
• Schismatoglottis — another texturally interesting midground option
• Shrimp tanks — the fine, ferny leaves are a favorite grazing surface for cherry/rili shrimp

Recommended Supplies

• Water conditioners & care — Hygrophila prefers stable parameters; weekly water changes keep new leaves coming in clean
• More live freshwater plants — build out the scape
• Shop more freshwater livestock & supplies

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my pinnatifida green instead of red?
Low light. Pinnatifida greens up in shade and rusts to copper/dark red under medium-high PAR. Move it higher in the column or up the photoperiod gradually.

Does it have to be planted in substrate?
No — it's one of the best aquarium plants for going epiphyte. Glue or tie the rhizome/stem base to wood or rock and the plant will root and spread.

Why are leaves dropping/melting after I brought it home?
"Melt" is normal for the first 1–3 weeks as the plant transitions from emersed (nursery) growth to submerged growth. Don't pull it — new submerged leaves push out from the nodes once it acclimates.

Is it shrimp- and fish-safe?
Yes. Pinnatifida is non-toxic; shrimp graze the biofilm on its leaves. Remove all rockwool before planting — fibers can be ingested.